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Pictures of My Nest Boxes

Recently, I have been asked by a number of people about how I designed my nest. Odd you say! Well the truth is that these days I talk more than I do, so many people heard me complain about how much work they were going to be. Therefore since people had to hear about them, it was only natural that they would ask to see them. Well here they are.

The nest boxes are 24"X24"X40". The half shelf is 12" off the bottom of the nest box, and it is 12" wide. The fronts are made of mahogany, and the dowels are oak ( but certainly not the oak that I used to get. The dowels are 5/16 and drilled 1/64 over.

Notice that the nest fron is in its storage position and is sitting on two rails. The rails are set 2 inches from the top of the nest and they are 25" long or just longer than the nest fronts.



Notice the notches. The notch in the middle is approximately 12" from the half shelf because that is how much room the pigeons need to jump to the half shelf. The front notch is approximately 2" from the front of the nest.

Note: At the end of the season, I will take off the slotted rails and cut a third slot somewhere farther down the rails. I got to thinking the other night that when mating the pigeons, I could use two nest fronts at the same time with one nest front going in each slot. I could put the cock in the back of the next behind the first nest front, and the hen in the front and between the first and second nest front. This would keep the hen and the cock separated while they got used to each other.

Eventually, the cock starts calling, and, when I see the hen calling back, I slide open the door first nest front and then slide open the door on the second front, and then close the first nest front again. This allows the hen to go in with the cock when she figures out the nest front doos has been opened, but it still doesn't allow her to leave the nest. He continues to call, and eventually she figures out that she can go in with him. This probably sounds like a lot of work, but it isn't, and it is very helpful with yearling.



Remember that if you are going to build these nests, the top and bottom rail need to be 3/4" longer on each side of the acutal nest front.


Blue Slate Hen


Notice the middle and bottom rail are two pices screwed together. A 3/8" slot is cut into each so that the 1/4 plywood door can slide back and forth. Notice that the bottom front rail is shorter than the back rail. The reason for this is so that if droppings build up in the track, when the door is slid open, the droppings can fall out.

Notice that the door is currently in the half way position. Not only does this help the pigeons get up on the top shelf, but when mating the pigeons, I can put the hen in the nest and the cock can see her from the shelf like a widowhood nest.


Notice here that the door is shut. In the off-season, I leave the nests in this position, so I don't have so much nest to clean.

Inbred HRV Hen 7778


Notice that in this picture the nest front is moved up to its forward position. In this position pigeons can land and take over the nest.

Queen of Spades


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